I just got back from a 3 day shoot in Newport Beach, CA. I was working with Jill Austin, an author who is coming out with a book that speaks about reaching our destiny. My favorite lines in the book are as follows.

“Big wave riders know about adventure. They travel the world following their dream of flowing in harmony with something more powerful than they are. They are in love with the thrill of being challenged. They go into the surf knowing that the pounding pressure of the waves could kill them. Wave riders understand living in the moment.

Why do people do things like that? Because when you have something big enough to die for, you become fully alive. It is in the heart of every person to have a cause, a desire for radical adventures that challenge the very core of our being. There needs to be a fresh cry in us that says, “I want to have a cause! I want to have an awakening that is big enough to dream about, fall in love with and die for.”

Below are a few still frames from the video of the surfers that I shot off the coast of Laguna Beach. These lines in the book have made me think alot about what it is I am really willing to die for? Unfortunately my answer and my actions don’t always seem to be in sync.